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Sunday, March 8, 2009

Disease, diagnosis, and treatment

1. Frighty/Loss of Appetite



This is very common problem. All arowana keepers will run into this problem at one time. The cause(s) are often not clear and unspecific. Proper tender loving is very important. Should any cause be identified, immediate action is advisable.







Large water change mean 50% of conditioned water change. Make sure all the parameters of the new water is adjusted identical to the tank water, esp. temperature and pH. It is then followed by 30% water change every 2-3 days until the fish condition improved or the water quality improved.

To reduce stress of arowana, you may cut some black garbage bag into strips and put weight on one end. Make sure you wash the strips before using them. They will act like artificial plants that create refuge area for the arowana. Remove them gradually when condition improved.

Overfeeding is often a problem. When they are over feed continuous for weeks or months, they start to lose appetite and refuse eating, the appetite will come back, just cut down the feeding.

After arowana was frighten, it is not uncommon for them to loss appetite for a while. This sometimes last for days or even weeks. It is important to identified the cause of the flightiness and delineate it. At the same time, give the fish a calm environment and tender loving care. Staying in front of the tank frequently make the fish get use to you and adapt to the environment faster. The fish will also develop a bond to you if you do it often.





2. Dropeye



This is not a disease, it is most probably cause by change of nature to captive environments which encourage the fish to look side and down rather then up. The 2nd most popular hypothesis is overfeeding. Genetic is the biggest factor in this problem.







Prevention is better than cure. Get a low tank. Avoid overfeeding, use floating food if possible. But most importantly do not buy the fish is you suspect dropeye.

There are other propose treatments for this problem. They included, adding ping pong ball and red flashing light into and above the tank respectively, putting a tank of cricket above the tank, pushing the eye back manually, operation, etc. I do not recommend the last three methods as they have high mortality rate.



3. Cloudy Eye



As the name suggested, a film of white converging form over the cornea of the eye due to various reasons. Majority of them are mild and do not need antibiotic. However this condition must be treated seriously as its high morbidity and possible mortality should condition got worst.







Cloudy eyes usually take days to heal except infective cause, which might take weeks to month with or without permanent damage. Infective cause of cloudy eye without preceding insult is uncommon. It occur only if the fish general condition is very bad. Although nutritional cause of cloudy eye is not proven in arowana, it is theoretically possible.



4. Gill Curl



In this condition, the gill cover of the arowana curl outward, initially involving only the solf part of the cover and later the hard gill cover. If the cause is not removed, condition will get worst, gill will get exposed, causing breathing difficulty and making the gill prone to infection. The end result could be fetal.







When only the soft portion of the gill cover is involve and problem noticed early, conservative management might be possible. However, when the hard portion of the gill cover is involved, the condition is not reversible without surgery. Surgery is done under analgesia. The curled portion of the gill is either trimmed out or multiple perpendicular(toward head) cuts is made on it.

There is a 3rd hypothesis on the cause of gill curl. Infection of the inner membrane is believed to be the cause in this hypothesis. Infection cause the inner membrane to swell and push the gill to curl outward(just like wetting the sticky side of stamp). More research is needed to prove this hypothesis.



5. Head-rot Syndrome



This is a very unique syndrome affecting more on Asian Arowanas then its Australian and South America counterpart, it is also more common in younger arowanas. In this syndrome, the head of the fish start to get oedematous(swollen) followed by a layer peeling off from the skin, starting from the front of the head and moving backward.







Activated carbon is believe to be the cause due to its close association with the syndrome. It is thought that activated carbon removed vital element in the water and hence disallow the head tissue to form normally. Other hypothesis around include irritation by the microscopic carbon particle deposited on the head. Healing is usually complete and occur within days when carbon is removed. Zeolite product could cause similar problem too but less severe and less common. Large arowana is less sensitive Head-rot Syndrome.



6. Tail-drop Syndrome



This is the sudden, clean breaking of rays of fins(esp. ventral and tail) which appear like being cut. This usually occur when the fish is under tremendous stress, e.g. jumping out of tank. It is believes by some a natural mechanism for the fish to break away from the predator when caught. similar to tail-dropping mechanism of some lizard.







Unfortunately, when this happen, the chance of the fin recovering to its original beauty is slim. Even when the breaking gap is not visible, the broken rays will atrophy and end up slightly smaller and shorter than the others. On the other hand, if the broken fin drop out spontaneously or cut out, the chance of a visible band in regenerated fin is high. In this situation, it is not uncommon that keeper choose to re cut the whole fin and wish for the fin to grow back more even. But then, the outcome is again unpredictable.

It is important to provide good water condition during the recovery phase to promote healing and prevent infection. Feed the fish good balance diet, add 0.3% salt & acraflavine and do more frequent water change. Healing take months.



7. Fin Membrane Tear



Unlike Tail-Drop Syndrome, the tear is between the fin rays and run parallel to the rays.







This is common and quite benign. They heal fast, sometime within days. X back golden is especially prone to this.



8. Broken Barble



Arowana is a fish with great force, it is not uncommon for the fish injured by its own force while darting around. Barble is important part of arowana as many believe it signified the horn of the dragon. Hence it is important for arowana to have perfect barble. Regeneration of barble occur from the base of the barble. If this area is also injured, the damage could be permanent.







If the base of barble is not injured, full recovery can be expected. Barble can be cut near the edge and allow it to regenerate. If the base is injured or the cut barble do not regenerate, a sterile needle puncturing the base just enough to cause bleeding can be done to stimulate growth. It is sometime good ideal to cut both barble rather than only the broken one so that they can grow out symmetrically.

It is important to provide good water condition during the recovery phase to promote healing and prevent infection. Feed the fish good balance diet, add 0.3% salt & acraflavine and do more frequent water change. Avoid small tank which will result contant rubbing of the barble onto the glass. This might result in deformed barble. Sign of regeneration can be seen in about 2 weeks time, full recovery take months.



9. Dropped Scale



Whole piece of scale or scales drop off following physical injury.







Regeneration of the scale is fast and take only days to weeks. However, it takes months for the color of the new scale to catch up with the rest. The is a chance that the scale might look different in color compare to the rest.

Bring the Luck

Asian arowanas are considered "lucky" by many people, particularly those from Asian cultures. This reputation derives from the species' resemblance to the Chinese dragon, considered an auspicious symbol. The large metallic scales and double barbels are features shared by the Chinese dragon, and the large pectoral fins are said to make the fish resemble "a dragon in full flight."

In addition, positive Feng Shui associations with water and the colours red and gold make these fishes popular for aquariums. One belief is that while water is a place where chi gathers, it is naturally a source of yin energy and must contain an "auspicious" fish such as an arowana in order to have balancing yang energy. Another is that a fish can preserve its owner from death by dying itself.

How to get Arowana fish


you can catch this fish in the kapuas river...
but, do you really want to try to catch arowana whatever in the river crocodiles are playing around. of course not.

so, you have to but it in the dealer.

which dealer you can contact?


visit:

http://www.aroponti.com/


How to make arowana love you



now, it's not impossible to make your arowana to be your friend.
the question is how? how to do that?
this is the answer:

1. feed them everyday by your self

you have to feed the arowana everyday frequently. (read How to make arowana look great ).
but, before you feeding your fish, you have to give the signal.

example:
wave your hand in the water.

2. feed them slowly

slowly in this section is give the food 1 by 1.
if your fish dont want to eat , you have to hide in the place that the fish can't see you. because some how wild arowana don't want if people see them when eating.
so, after the fish already eat, you can see them again until the fish want to eat in front of you.

but, we have an optional.( maybe this one is to barbar.)
you can fast your fish for 2 or 3 days.
then give them food in front of you.

3. stroke the arowana

now, after the arowana had already want to near you, just stroke it slowly.

you can give the food in the water if you can already stroke it gently.

don't try to pull the tail of the arowana. they don't like it very much.


so, this is the end
have a nice try.
(if you want to do this part, try it when they are still baby)


Kind of Arowana


Super red arowana

Several distinct, naturally occurring colour varieties are recognized, each found in a specific geographic region. They include the following:

• The green is the most common variety, found in Vietnam, Myanmar, Thailand, Cambodia, and Malaysia.

• The silver Asian (not to be confused with the silver arowana, Osteoglossum bicirrhosum) is considered part of the green variety by some. It has two subvarieties, the "grey tail silver" or "Pinoh arowana," and the "yellow tail silver," each found in a different part of the island of Borneo in Indonesia.

• The red-tailed golden is found in northern Sumatra, Indonesia.

• The gold crossback, blue Malayan, or Bukit Merah blue is native to the state of Pahang and Bukit Merah area in Perak, Malaysia.

• The red, super red, blood red, or chili red is known only from the upper part of the Kapuas River in western Borneo, Indonesia.

In 2003, a study was published which proposed breaking S. formosus into four separate species. This classification was based on both morphology and genetics, and includes the following species:

• Scleropages formosus was redescribed to include the strain known as the green arowana. The gold crossback, which was not part of the study, was included in this species by default.

• Scleropages macrocephalus described the silver Asian arowana.

• Scleropages aureus described the red-tailed golden arowana.

• Scleropages legendrei described the super red arowana.

Other researchers dispute this reclassification, arguing that the published data are insufficient to justify recognizing more than one Southeast Asian species of Scleropages.




Kind of Arowana Video


Red Arowana (scleropages formosus)



They like it because of Rare and Beautiful..

Golden Arowana (scleropages formosus)



Brighter and Beautiful

Platinum Arowana



Platinum is the most Expensive of Colour

Green Arowana (scleropages formosus)



They look so Green

Arapaima Arowana (arapaima gigas)



The Biggest arowana in the world

Silver Arowana (Osteoglossum bicirrhosum)


This species is found in the Amazon River basin and in the Rupununi and Oyapock Rivers in South America as well as in still waters in Guyana



Things to do when Arowana is first brought home


Many first time Dragon Fish hobbyist has the fright of their life when the fish die on them, minutes or hours after they are introduced to the new tank at home. Dragon Fish is considered to be a hardy fish but when subject to sudden changes of water condition, it can be fatal. Apart from acquiring healthy fishes from reputable aquarium shop or farm, hobbyist should also take additional measures as follows:

1. Prepare tank with well-aerated over-night water.

This allows the dissipation of chlorine which is harmful to the fish when in excess amount, into the air. Should there be any time constraint in the tank set-up, anti-chlorine solution is available commercially and can be found in most aquarium shop.

2. To maintain a low level of water which is sufficient for the Dragon Fish to swim freely.

When transported, fish are usually stressed and vunerable to diseases the result of an affected immunity system. Low water level prevents the fish from exerting itself and help the fish to rest.
3. Do not use strong filtration system which cause water to be turbulent.

Allow the fish to rest at the bottom of the tank.

4. Use a water heater set at 30 C.

This is to maintain a constant water temperature and to kill bacteria which cannot tolerate that temperature range. Any frequent temperature fluctuation will further subject the fish to stress and can be fatal. Gill curling is often the result of this condition.

5. Very low aeration to maintain constant water temperature.

Though with water heater in placed, high aeration will introduce external air temperature into the water and cause the work of water heater to be ineffective. This should be observed especially when the tank is located in an air-conditioned environment. Do not introduce the Dragon Fish into the tank immediately. Place the bag containing the fish into the tank and allow heat transfer to take place to achieve a same temperature between the water in the bag and the water in the tank. Release the fish into the tank after 15 to 20 minutes.

6. Feeding of food should be done 2-3 days after the Dragon Fish has been introduced to the new tank, when the fish has adapted to the new environment.

The fish is stressed when transported and introduced into a new water condition. The fish will experience poor digestion. Early feeding will further stress the fish and lower the immunity system. Also the uneaten food will foul the water and promote the multiplication of bad bacteria.

7. Overfeeding of food should be avoided.

Once per day will be sufficient. When the fish health is in stable condition after a few weeks, the feeding frequency can be increased to twice per day. Any uneaten food should be scooped out to prevent the fouling of water.
viii) Frequent water change in moderate amount is recommended. 10 to 20 percent water change each week will do. Any greater amount will subject the fish to shock resulting in stress that can be fatal.


Traders to enhance the color of Dragon Fish

The high price and the lack of knowledge by hobbyist in identifying genuine grades Dragon Fish have led many unethical breeders and traders into devising ways and methods to reap a huge profit by making the Dragon Fish look attractive and irresistible to inexperience hobbyists - temporarily.

Use of colour hormones

This method can only be used on the young fishes of sizes 4-7 inches as the adult fish has thicker scales which prevent the colour of the skin below the scales to be seen. Most commonly, the Yellow-tail is fed with the Red colour hormones and sold as genuine grade Red Dragon Fish.


Use of Chemical colour enhancers

This method subjects the Dragon fish external scale and fins to a colour solution that will provide a temporary metallic-colour coating. This form of treatment gives the Dragon Fish scales a very well colour balance and attractive appearance. However, the colour will fade gradually over the period of 4 - 6 months. This misleads many hobbyists into thinking that they have not been practicing good Dragon Fish keeping skill that results in poor colour exhibition of their own Dragon Fish.


Exposing Dragon Fish to sunlight

This method works well with the Red and the Yellow Tail. When expose to sunlight, the Dragon Fish colour will darken as its colour pigment is enhanced. With intense colourisation, they are considered as premium quality and sold at premium price. However, when this same fish is transferred to indoor tank and without exposing to sunlight, its colour will fade gradually.


Starving the Dragon Fish

This method provides just sufficient amount of food for the fish to survive. It stunts the physical growth in order to achieve deeper and much intense colourisation compare to other normal growth Dragon Fish. Many hobbyists gauge the age of the Dragon fish by its size as there are no other obvious signs. This method misled hobbyist into believing that the stunted fish is of exceptional quality since it exhibit deeper and intense colour even though at a young age. These Dragon Fishes usually have awkward appearances such as large eyes and sunken belly with disproportionate body shape resulting in poor swimming style.


Blinding eyes of the Dragon Fish on purpose

This is the latest and most cruel method used recently. Blind Dragon Fish sees only total darkness and the natural chameleon instinct of the fish gives rise to the exhibition of dark and intense body colour by the fish very quickly. Inexperienced hobbyist will not be able to notice the fish has been blinded as this is very cleverly done.

Selling crossbreed Dragon Fish at the price of genuine grade fish

These crossbreed young fishes look very much the same as the genuine grade fish. In fact, it is almost impossible for an expert to tell the difference between the both unless one knows the true bloodline of fishes. Some examples are Crossback/Green and Crossback/RTG sold as Crossback. These crossbreed Dragon Fish do not exhibit good colourisation when in adulthood but when young can even fool experts.

The above-mentioned unethical practices are in one way or another cruel and harmful to the Dragon Fish. To effectively "bring out" the full colour potential of the fish without harming the fish, natural food such as krill and prawn, which are rich in axthaxiantine and carotene, are to be recommended.


How to make arowana look great


Arowana is not a difficult fish to keep. After all, it has survived through millions of years until man came into its way. All you need is to spend one to two hours per week taking care of it and you will have years of enjoyment watching this beautiful fossil dragon swimming in your aquarium.

1. Check Water Condition

pH : Although arowana can withstand a reasonable range of pH, they should be kept in water that is slightly acidic or neutral. Make sure you check you pH regularly, especially if you have something in your setup that will altered pH, e.g. peat, CO2 system(in planted aquarium), etc.



Temperature : Water temperature should be maintained at between 26C-30C(79F-86F). Avoid sudden change of temperature as it may chock the fish can cause problem like tail dropping. Although arowana can withstand higher temperature, this is not recommended especially if it is for long period of time. High temperature cause wrinkling of the gill cove and destroy the authentic look of the fish.


Hardness : Arowana like soft water but can also tolerate water with reasonable hardness.

2. Water Change Frequently

Arowana is carnivorous fish. they produce large amount of waste. High ammonia, nitrite and nitrate are common problem in arowana tank. Regular water change is the easiest way to deal with it. 1/4-1/3 water change per week is recommended, 20% twice a week is even better if you have the time. Make sure you adjust the temp and pH of the new water similar to the tank's. Sudden drop of temperature or pH is dangerous and could sometime proved to be lethal.

3. Feeding Time

Small arowana(below 15cm> should be fed three times a day, medium arowana<15-35cm)>



History of Arowana


Arowana fish has been found by Müller and Schlegel, 1844
Days of old, arowana was in a hurry have been fishermen and consumed, there are some in fried and appointed as the salted fish, Because the taste so delicious and tasty. But the fishermen did not know that the arowana fish population has begun to disappear, so some fishermen are also hunting and selling in to the hobbyis. In the upstream of Kapuas river, there are many people who do not know that the arowana is rare animals that are expensive. Arowana fish that are in the upper Kapuas river usually diversiform green Arowana fish and arowana some other types.

Perhaps, in the arowana has been raised by Chinese people for centuries of years ago as a protector and lucky and so far no Chinese people still believe that the arowana fish is a figure of a god and the dragon that symbolizes the "yin" and "yang" which is a balance physical and spiritual. Not infrequently the hobiis dare to spend their money to buy that expensive fish because Arowana Fish has a Beautiful color and shiny sparkler.

Arowana Morphology
Arwana ornamental fish is fresh water coming from the tropics This family of fish, including fish bones tongue (Osteoglossidae) and ordo Osteoglossiformes. Live in rivers and lakes have current slow. Arowana able to live in a little water until slightly acid pH range 6,5-7,5. Temperature range that can be tolerated between 24-30 ° C. Arowana including animals with food karnivora main shrimp, fish, frogs, and bugs. Arowana find food in the daytime (diurnal), and has a territorial area (soliter), and proliferate in a way to keep the eggs hatch in the mouth (mouth breeder or parental care).
Arowana mature adult gonad at the age of 7 years with a body length reaches 60-70 cm. Arowana including this type of fish that produce few eggs. The average number of eggs in one marriage between 30-50 grains. The eggs hatch in the mother's mouth for 40-43 days. Hathcer parent according to Scott & Fuller (1976) is a male. However, based on research by Fuhrman & Smith (1945) and Merrick & Green (1976), Parent Hatcher egg is female.

Of the protected Hockey
Not all species of the genus Scleropages included in the rare category. According to data from various sources, Scleropages formosus only species that lives in Borneo and Sumatra expressed rare. IUCN (International Union for Conservation of Nature) to enter Scleropages formosus in the Red Data Book since 1969. Even CITES (Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Flora and Fauna) categorize Apendix I(read “ai” in english) mean that is almost extinct. Strain of Scleropages formosus expressed almost extinct red dragon is siluk (Super Red) kalesa and yellow (Golden Red).
The cause of scarcity of arowana often occur because a large-scale of cathing regardless of population. Could not be denied colors shimmer squama arowana red jewel like. However, stories about the mystical “Bring the luck” actually become the main why the Arowana is rare.
Many hobiis arowana believe siluk red or yellow gold is kalesa incarnation of the red dragon or Chinese language is called Ie Tiaw Lung. The hobiis convinced the dragon to bring fortune.
To this red arowana still be hunted by many, especially among the business however the price is so expensive, because even though the price is believed to promote the business. Is not only Super Red arowana that can bring blessing. All types of arowana can also blessings because appearance is very elegant, and authoritative. With elegance and beauty, arowana owner can be entertaining. Entertainment is definitely bring excitement to the owner.


Arowana Babies

This is our Arowana Babies/Larva...


About 1 week


3 weeks larva

6 weeks larva


They are so Cute~

Grow fast and Colorful ...

Our Collection







and many more...

do you like this fish?

we sell the fish, small super red Arowana, RTG Arowana ,Green Arowana,Banjar Arowana
you can contact us at







fish for some one to some one


Spoon head collector


wow.. its spicy.. hot!!!

Great grand pha~~ still young

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